Rosa Versilia (Versilia) - a description of the bush variety

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Hybrid tea rose Versilia is distinguished by an unusually delicate peach shade of velvety petals. Subtle aroma and long flowering are the distinguishing qualities of the variety. Despite the fact that it is not easy to grow, it is worth paying attention to all flower lovers.

Rose Hybrid Tea Versilia (Versilia)

The variety was bred in France in the famous NIRP International nursery in 1996. Gardeners liked the new tea-hybrid rose, characterized by a characteristic shade and attractive decorative qualities.

The abundantly flowering hybrid is ideal for cutting. Flowers stand in a vase for a long time, without losing the turgor of petals and preserving a pleasant delicate aroma. The hue depends on the care and lighting, but on the whole quite accurately retains a special peach tone.

Versilia rose

The variety description says that the bush is picky about care and pruning. Shoots are erect and strong, up to a maximum height of 120 cm, but most often only 80 cm. The crown reaches 70 cm in width. The leaf is dark green, glossy. The stems have many spikes, but with large gaps between them, which facilitates care. The stem carries 1-3 flowers, but maybe 5. The diameter of 1 flower is from 10 to 13 cm. The number of petals in the corolla is up to 30.

Inflorescence of roses Versilia

The flower is large and fragrant, looks attractive even in the form of a bud. It is revealed quite a long time - up to 3 days. The color of the petals is gradient - light (cream) at the edge and saturated at the center of the flower. The first buds appear at the end of May, and the last at the end of September.

For reference! Orth Versilia enjoys a good reputation among florists as a highly productive species with prolonged vitality in cut.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

It was the gardeners who noticed quite a few advantages of this variety:

  • Long flowering almost to frost.
  • Explicit and very pleasant aroma.
  • A fairly rare shade of petals.
  • Compact bush, well complementing other plantings.
  • Great for cutting, long does not fade in bouquets.
  • Adaptation to growth conditions at winter minima of -15-17 ° С.

Disadvantages are also noticed:

  1. Demanding care, it is necessary to regularly trim and process diseases and pests.
  2. It does not withstand frosts below -15 ° C without special shelter.

Use in landscape design

Cut buds in vases look exceptionally beautiful. But the bush of Versilia looks no less attractive, so the variety is used in the design of parks and gardens. This rose is planted in the center of flower beds and flower beds, and also used in mixborders.

Versilia in landscape design

In group and single planting, the variety looks equally aesthetically pleasing. The shade of leaves and shoots perfectly combines with the emerald green of lawns. In any landscape style, it will be equally organic.

Attention! Planting is not recommended to thicken too much - the optimum density is not more than 5 bushes per 1 m².

Flower growing

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For breeding roses, planting seedlings and cuttings is ideal. Planting material should be purchased in a reliable nursery. So there will not be an unpleasant situation when expectations do not coincide with what actually grows.

In what form is landing

Saplings with open and closed root systems are planted in a permanent place in May. When the threat of freezing frost has passed. In plants with a closed root system in containers, the chances of taking root immediately are several times higher. If the seedling has exposed roots, then planting is best done the next day, soaking the roots overnight in a solution of growth stimulant.

Rose seedlings with a closed root system

If on sale there is such a rare product, like Versilia rose seeds, then you should not buy them. The variety is tea-hybrid, which means the non-viability of its seeds. And even if they germinate after a long stratification, there is no guarantee that a plant with the characteristics of the Versilia variety will grow out of them.

What time is the landing

Depending on weather conditions, spring planting is carried out in late May - early June.

The soil should be warmed to a temperature above + 10 ° C.

If landing is carried out in the fall in mid-September, do not delay. The bush should not give young shoots before the onset of frost, its purpose is only rooting.

Location selection

Digging a landing hole on the south side of the site, where there is a lot of sun throughout the daylight hours. Light shading is acceptable, but only in the afternoon.

Under the tree crowns, as in the northern lowlands, planting is not recommended. Close to the fence or wall, it is also impossible to plant, there should be a distance of at least 50 cm.

On the flowerbed, the bush is freed from close neighbors, since it needs to be well ventilated from all sides.

How to prepare the soil and flower for planting

The soil for planting is prepared loose and fertile with a pH of 5.6-7.3. For looseness add peat, sand, and also enriched with humus and compost.

Attention! A quality nursery seedling has 2-4 strong shoots above the point of vaccination. On seedlings with open roots of leaves should not be, they are allowed only on bushes in containers. If the shoots are very long, then they are shortened, leaving no more than 5 buds on each.

Landing procedure step by step

The process consists of standard steps:

  1. A planting hole is dug with a size of 50 × 50 cm and a depth of up to 60 cm.
  2. Half covered with soil mixed in half with humus and left to settle for a couple of weeks.
  3. A day before planting, a bucket of water is poured into the pit.
  4. The plant is lowered into the hole so that the root neck is 3 cm below the soil level.
  5. Fill the roots with soil, lightly tamp and abundantly watered.

Plant care

The optimum temperature regime during the active vegetation period is + 22-25 ° С. In general, the rules of care are similar to the standard for all roses, with the difference that you can’t leave the bush unattended for a long time, it needs attention. The worst neighborhood is weeds, and deep loosening of soil around the bush is impossible. The best solution is mulching.

Watering rules and humidity

Rosa James Galway

Too often, watering the plant is not necessary; waterlogging is detrimental to roses. In summer, the usual watering regimen is weekly.

In autumn, reduce the frequency of watering up to 2 times a month. If the rains in the area are frequent, then watering can be completely abandoned.

Top dressing and soil quality

Feeding for the season is carried out 4 times.

  • The first time around the bush is dug a groove about 30 cm deep, into which liquid organic fertilizer is poured along with water.
  • In June, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are added.
  • The next time a month later, complex mineral supplements are added.
  • The fourth top dressing is similar to the third.

Pruning and transplanting

For prevention, the rose is pruned in spring and autumn, removing diseased and damaged stems, as well as shortening too long shoots.

Important! The buds are tied only on the shoots of this year, so it is important to follow this when pruning.

Conduct and forming pruning:

  1. For 2 year growth in spring. Leave 5 last year's shoots of 5-6 buds each.
  2. In the summer, during the period of active flowering, flowers are cut, leaving 1 bud under them.
  3. In November, before wintering, all shoots are shortened, leaving 40-45 cm (no shorter).

Features of wintering a flower

As soon as the bush dumps all the foliage, it is necessary to build shelter.

Fir spruce branches, which are placed on top of roses and in between. If there is no spruce branch, then dry grass or foliage will do. From above, a rack or arc frame is installed, which is covered with agro-canvas or burlap. You can close the rose with a film, but be sure to leave a side air.

Flowering roses

The long-awaited blooming of buds occurs in late May. As soon as young shoots grow from the buds, single buds are formed at their ends or 3-5 at once. They bloom sequentially, which is ideal for translational cutting.

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This variety is characterized by continuous and continuous flowering. Peace comes in the fall, when the sun is no longer enough and the air cools, dropping below + 10 ° C at night. In spring, the bush will wake up when the soil warms up above + 10 ° C.

Attention! During flowering, it is necessary to monitor the buds. If cutting is carried out all the time, then the bush will actively drive out more and more shoots. If the cut for bouquets is not carried out, then from time to time it is necessary to inspect the bush and cut off all wilted flowers.

The lack of flowers suggests that the rose did not have enough light or nutrients. Feeding will help, or transplanting to a more illuminated area.

Flower propagation

Having one bush, it is easy to propagate. Apply cuttings, dividing the bush, as well as rooting layering.

Rooting cuttings in water

Reproduction by dividing the bush is carried out in the spring. As soon as the soil thaws, you need to dig a bush and divide it into several parts so that 2-3 shoots and a sufficient number of roots remain on each.

This procedure is effective for those roses that are grown from cuttings, but not grafted onto the dog rose. Vaccination is done in order to increase winter hardiness, as well as resistance to drought. As a support, take a dog rose 2 years old.

Attention! Cuttings and propagation by layering are practiced in the summer, preferably in June, to give young plants maximum time for active rooting.

Layering - a young shoot of this year or a long branch of last year is bent to the ground and fixed with a hairpin, sprinkled with soil 5-10 cm. Outside, leave a part of the shoot with several buds. This place needs to be watered more often, including with the addition of growth stimulants. The rooted shoot is separated at the end of August and planted in a new place.

For cuttings, shoots of this year with 3-4 kidneys are cut. They are placed in containers with water or in containers with soil. The process of regrowth of roots takes at least a month with careful observance of temperature, humidity and sterility.

Diseases, pests and ways to combat them

The greatest damage to a rose is caused by:

Peach roses in the garden

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  • Powdery mildew - appears with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. The bush is treated with a solution of Fundazole.
  • Rust is a fungal disease, manifested by red spots on the foliage. The treatment with copper oxychloride, Oxychom helps.
  • Black spotting - affects leaves. Treatment with drugs with copper in the composition will help.
  • Bacterial cancer - affects the root. To prevent acidification of the soil.
  • Aphids are the most common pest of roses, against which there are many drugs on sale, for example, Iskra, Komandor and others.

The rose of the hybrid tea strain Versilia is an exquisite decoration of the flower garden, which is impossible to pass without enthusiasm. Delicate aroma and velvety petals are literally mesmerizing! Having planted such a plant in your garden, you can be sure that the rose bush will become extremely noticeable and revitalize the site.

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Watch the video: Versilia peach roses (November 2024).