Calla (Callas) is a perennial plant from the Aroid family. It grows in swampy soils or fresh water bodies of the tropics and temperate climate of the Northern Hemisphere. In the wild, it can be found in Siberia and the Far East. A separate species grows in Africa. The plant is equally used as a garden and home flower, as well as used in medicine. This exotic seems to many very capricious and demanding, but other flower growers claim that calla grows well and blooms. Just a little attention and the right selection of places for the plant are enough.
Plant description
Calla is a herbaceous perennial with creeping rhizome and creeping shoot on the ground. Its height does not exceed 10-25 cm above the soil level. Rhizome and tuberous species are found. The fibrous branches, which can grow up to 60 cm in length, usually depart from the main root. Outwardly, they resemble creeping worms with annular marks. The thickness of the root along the entire length is only 1.5-2 mm.
Regular leaves grow perpendicular to the ground on long fleshy petioles. The plates are oval or heart-shaped with a slightly pointed edge and solid or wavy sides. Radial or arched relief veins are noticeable on the foliage. A fairly dense, leathery leaf grows 6-16 cm long and 5-14 cm wide. The color is quite saturated, dark green.
In May-July, an inflorescence blossoms with many bisexual flowers with a diameter of not more than 1 cm. They sit on the top of the peduncle, arranged in a spiral. Each bisexual flower has 6 stamens and an ovary with 3-6 carpels. The length of the inflorescence in the shape of an ears is about 6 cm. It has a thickened cylindrical structure. Around is a coverlet (covering sheet). Often it has a white color with a greenish base.
A month after pollination, roundish juicy berries ripen with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Each contains 3-12 seeds up to 3 mm long. They are covered with shiny brownish-purple skin with a waxy coating that allows you to stay well on the water. Calla berries are poisonous, you can’t eat them!
Species and varieties of calla lilies
To date, botanists have registered 8 plant species, but only 3 of them are usually used in culture along with decorative varieties.
Calla Ethiopian. The largest plant, which during flowering rises to a height of about 1 m. The underground part is represented by a creeping flexible root without a tuber. Shiny dark green leaves have a uniform color. They grow on vertical petioles and have an oval or heart-shaped shape. Foliage is preserved throughout the year and does not fall during the dormant period.
Calla Remann A more compact variety, up to 70 cm in height. Under the ground is a flattened tuber of irregular shape. The leaves of the plant are more elongated. They differ in a plain dense green color. In autumn, a dormant period sets in, when the entire ground part, including leaves, dies. The inflorescence envelops a lilac, purple or red veil. Varieties:
- Garnet Gloe - plants 55 cm high in June-September are pleased with large pomegranate-red inflorescences;
- Crystal Blush - an inflorescence on the shoot up to 45 cm high is shrouded in a narrow veil, which at the beginning of flowering is snow-white, and then becomes slightly pinkish along the edge;
- Picasso - inside a narrowly rolled bedspread, dark lilac shades prevail, and a wide white border is located on the edge;
- Odessa - calla with very spectacular dark red at the base, almost black inflorescences;
- Askari - a dark red veil is edged with a narrow cream strip.
Calla Elliott. A plant up to 5 cm tall is distinguished by large dark green leaves. On their surface are many small white spots and dots. The inflorescence is shrouded in a golden veil with a green base. Varieties:
- Black Magic - garden calla lilies up to 1 m high dissolve inflorescences up to 15 cm in length, hidden under a golden veil;
- Red Alert - large speckled foliage sets off solid red scarlet inflorescences.
Breeding methods
Callas can be grown from seeds or by rhizome (tuber) dividing. It is quite difficult to grow callas from seeds, as planting material quickly loses its germination capacity. For better development, the seeds are treated with a hormone preparation for several hours (Epin, Ethamon, Zircon), and then placed in a damp tissue. In this form, they are before the appearance of sprouts, then the seeds should be evenly distributed in pots with sand and peat soil. So that seedlings do not rot, watering is extremely rare, slightly moistening the soil. It is better to carry out irrigation through a pan. Plants contain in ambient light and a temperature of + 22 ° C. 2 months after the emergence of seedlings, picking is carried out in separate pots.
It is much easier to get a new plant in a vegetative way. Species without tubers are propagated by individual sections of the rhizome. Each should have 1-2 kidneys. Slices are treated with activated carbon and slightly dried in air, and then planted in fresh soil. Callas with tuberous rhizome are propagated by children. On the maternal tuber, lateral outgrowths form over time. At the top they have kidneys. Children can be cut off or broken off with their hands, disinfected and dropped into a new pot.
Planting and care at home
Heat-loving callas are quite easy to grow at home. They are planted in medium-sized pots. Drainage material must be poured to the bottom. The soil mixture consists of the following components:
- sheet soil (1 part);
- turf soil (2 parts);
- deciduous humus (1 part);
- river sand (0.5 parts).
Even before planting, it is recommended to add superphosphate to the ground.
A pot of calla lilies is placed on the eastern or western windowsill. The plant needs a fairly bright, but diffused light, without direct sunlight. Daylight hours should be at least 10-12 hours. In winter, it is necessary to rearrange the plant to the southern window, and also use a phytolamp, otherwise there may be no flowers in the next season, and the shoots will stretch out a lot.
In spring or summer, the flower will feel better at a temperature of + 23 ... + 25 ° C. In the fall, when the dormant period begins, it is transferred to a cooler room (up to + 12 ... + 15 ° C). This mode must be observed regardless of whether the plant drops all the leaves. Some owners plant their callas in the garden for the summer, and in the autumn they dig them up and transfer them to the pots.
The inhabitant of the marshland needs regular and plentiful watering. The soil should be slightly moist, but without stagnation of water in the pot and pan. Watering is done with well-purified, soft water. It is best to irrigate through the sump in a wick way. Since calla lilies prefer acidic soils, a little lemon juice can be added to the water.
The plant is more comfortable with high humidity, but it is not worth spraying the flowers. From drops of water on leaves and petals appear ugly spots. To increase humidity, trays with wet expanded clay are placed near the plants. The foliage should be regularly cleaned from dust with a damp soft cloth.
In order for the plant to develop better, especially with a lack of lighting, regular feeding is needed. Mineral or organic complexes are added every 10-14 days. You can use universal formulations or those designed specifically for callas. Before flowering, phosphorus compounds are preferred.
During dormancy, when the tuberous plants completely discard the foliage, the pots are placed in a cool, dark place. Watering is completely stopped. The tubers can be left in the ground or removed, inspected and placed in a container of dry sand. They need to be kept at low (+ 5 ... + 10 ° C) temperatures. If the house does not have such a room, the lower shelf of the refrigerator will do. In early March, the plants are returned to fresh soil, and they are watered with care.
Outdoor cultivation
In temperate climates, in the summer, callas can be planted in the garden to create a beautiful exotic landscape. Plants are planted on a flowerbed in early May. Before planting, the tubers are inspected, damaged areas are cut, pickled and treated with fungicide. The plants will be well in an open, well-lit area or in partial shade.
The soil is pre-digged and fertilizers are applied. For full development, acidic soils without lime are needed. To further acidify the earth, a weak solution of citric acid is poured into it. Tubers are planted to a depth of 5-10 cm and with a distance of 30-40 cm.
After planting, the land is watered abundantly. The first sprouts do not appear very quickly. It may take 2-4 weeks. You can not dig up a tuber and check for seedlings.
Calla lilies need regular watering so that the soil does not remain dry for a long time, but the water does not stagnate in the soil. After watering, the surface of the soil is loosened and weeds are removed.
If fertilizers were introduced into the ground before planting, then additional regular feeding of calle is not necessary. She will have enough nutrients in their soil. But an excess of fertilizers can lead to decay of the rhizome.
After flowering for several months, lush foliage persists. In autumn, it begins to wither among tuberous plants. This serves as a signal for digging up plants. It is not necessary to completely shake off the earth from them. It is enough to place the tubers in boxes and store in a cool room (+ 5 ... + 10 ° C). When the foliage is completely dry, it is pruned. If you do not rush to prune, then all the nutrients will have time to go to the rhizome.
Possible difficulties
Calla has good immunity. Plant diseases almost never damage it. However, with improper care, a fungal infection can develop. All damaged areas should be trimmed to healthy tissue and treated with Bordeaux fluid.
In the garden, foliage and flowers are often attacked by insects. Particularly annoying aphids and spider mites. If these insects appeared on the vegetation, it is best to immediately treat the plantings with an insecticide (Akarin, Actellik, Komandor).
Although most flower growers report regular flowering, some face the problem of lack of flowers. Sometimes calla lilies do not bloom for a decade. The reason for this may be the following circumstances:
- the absence of a pronounced resting period with decreasing temperature;
- insufficiently bright lighting;
- insufficient watering during the period of active growth or the use of cold water;
- too close a pot;
- the use of nitrogenous fertilizers before flowering.
